The Fading Beauty of San Nicolas

There was a period in my life when I spent a considerable amount of time hanging around bars in Manila. I had friends who were musicians, and I'd go watch their gigs. After they wrapped up, our usual move was to head over to Marcy's house in San Nicolas to just chill.

What makes San Nicolas special is that it’s considered a heritage district of the city. Even now, you can still see these 19th-century ancestral houses, which were home to wealthy businessmen, artisans, and craftsmen. I have such vivid memories of wandering through those narrow alleys. You’d hear the neighbors chatting away, and you could see this amazing mix of history and everyday life happening all at once.

Honestly, it makes me a little sad to see how much time and modernization have changed San Nicolas. Those gorgeous wooden houses with all their intricate carvings are slowly disappearing. What used to feel like a living museum of Manila’s heritage is really struggling to hold onto its unique identity now.

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